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  Some Air Pistol Reviews
Posted by: Benjamin Liu - 11-04-2017, 04:06 AM - Forum: Knives and Assorted Weapons - Replies (8)

Over the past year or so I decided to test a few air pistols for training.  These were all purchased at Wal-Mart.

My intention was to find pistols that were good for practice for myself and that I can teach kids with.

1.  Sig Sauer 1911-

This is the plastic CO2 pistol that generally sells from $25.00-50.00, not the expensive one.  It shoots BBs and is semi-automatic.  The trigger loads the BB from the magazine into the chamber, making it something of a double-action.  I suppose it is OK for the money.  The trigger pull is heavy and the accuracy is nowhere near what I was looking for.  I would not recommend this for precision shooting but it would be OK for point shooting or tactical shooting.

2.  Daisy Powerline 1911- 

This is a metal CO2 pistol that I got on sale but Wal-Mart normally sold it for over $80.00 and it is normally in the $100.00 range.  It shoots BBs and is semi-automatic and is a blowback, so is more of a "single action."  The trigger pull is better than on the Sig.  The weight and the blowback make it more realistic than typical CO2 pistols.  Unfortunately, the blowback action effects the power and number of shots.  It still doesn't have the accuracy I was looking for.  Loading CO2 cartridges is somewhat complicated. 

In looking for it online it looks like it is the same pistol as the Winchester 1911, but I could be wrong about it.

I really like it as a fun pistol to shoot, but it does not fit my criteria for accuracy for a training pistol.  Like the Sig, it would be OK for point and tactical shooting.

3.  Daisy Powerline 340-

This is a spring BB pistol.  It normally sells for $15.00 or so but i got it on sale for less than $10.00.  At the $15.00 prince I was not expecting much but it failed to meet my already low expectations.  I correctly guessed that it was basically an airsoft pistol that shot BBs instead of airsoft pellets.  I was not correct that the metal BBs would make it more accurate than an airsoft.  This is inferior in every way to a typical airsoft spring pistol.  An airsoft will have better range and accuracy.

I don't know what this gun is good for.  There are more efficient ways to inaccurately throw BBs downrange.

4.  Benjamin Trail NP-

This is a single-shot nitro piston .177 pellet pistol.  It has fiber optic sights and I prefer regular iron sights, but other might prefer them.  The accuracy isn't where I'd like it to be but it is more accurate and has better range than the previous three pistols. 

At first the accuracy was very bad.  I was shooting about 4" low.  I looked up some reviews and this is a common and easily fixed issue.  There is a cocking assist that goes on the end of the barrel like a flash suppressor.  This is the problem.  While it does make cocking easier, it is what causes it to shoot low.  Someone had a youtube video showing an alternate method of using it, using it backwards so that the muzzle of the cocking assist is put on the end of the barrel and used to cock it and then taken off before shooting.  I just take it off after I break the barrel and before I load the pellet so I don't have my hand in front of the muzzle.

This is my newest one so it hasn't been used as much as the others yet, aside from the 340 which I don't use at all now.

5.  Crosman 1377-

I saved the best for last.  This is a single-shot pneumatic .177 pellet pistol.  I actually got this one a little over two years ago.  I had an older version in the 1980s that I shot all the time.  The newer version has a bolt handle and it does not have the BB magnet so it is strictly a pellet gun.  BBs can damage the rifling anyway, which made it strange to include it on the older one.

The power, range, trigger, and accuracy are good for a pneumatic pellet pistol.  At 10-12 feet I can split a business card maybe 20% of the time.

I just have the basic pistol without the optional stock since my purpose was for handgun training.

Considering that I don't shoot it daily or even weekly (it still looks new) I'm not sure if it will last as long as my original, but so far I really like it.

On the topic of kids, they seemed to handle the CO2 pistols the best since they were lighter and they did not have to load them.  They they could not load the Benjamin or Crosman themselves.

In 2000 I bought a Daisy CO2 pistol which looked like a Glock 17L.  This had an internal reservoir for BBs and needed to be cocked before each shot.  This was very similar to one a friend had in the 1980s, and was probably just the same gun but made to look like a Glock.  I bought it for tactical and point shooting, expecting to have the performance I had with the two CO2 pistols reviewed above.  I don't have it anymore so I can't compare them, but I was able to hit a sheet of drywall at about 100 yards.  Of course that was a big target, but I was not expecting such power.  It probably was discontinued due to not being semi-auto.  I think there is a trade-off with the CO2 pistols no matter what type you get.

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  canvas & Paper micarta and G-10
Posted by: jbarrow - 11-02-2017, 06:57 PM - Forum: Knives and Assorted Weapons - Replies (4)


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  Camp chopper and older-style mid-tech Benghazi Warfighters
Posted by: Stormcrow - 10-27-2017, 07:43 PM - Forum: Knives and Assorted Weapons - No Replies

Some more recently completed work.

A forged camp chopper, 80CrV2 steel and TeroTuf handle slabs.  The blade is about 10 5/8" long.  The customer wanted a large finger choil for choked-up work.  It's not the biggest blade I've made by any stretch, but everyone who handled it agreed it was a beast.  Smile

[Image: 37906787712_95e85eb12e_c.jpg]tw04 by James Helm, on Flickr

Kydex sheath.

[Image: 37884267116_7573ef533a_c.jpg]tw05 by James Helm, on Flickr

The customer requested an exposed skullcrusher tang and a dedicated lanyard hole.  This was a first for me, to build a slab handle with a notch to accommodate a lanyard hole.  I say "dedicated" because the flared tube rivets also afford lanyard attachment points.

[Image: 37884256706_336d26830c_c.jpg]tw06 by James Helm, on Flickr

I've been in the very long, slow process of trying to launch a mid-tech stock removal line based on my more popular forged designs.  I haven't posted too much about it because I wanted to have everything ready to roll first.  I'm finally approaching that point.  Along the way I have had small batches of blades waterjet cut and have tweaked my design a bit as I go, getting everything zeroed in to the final product.  I have a very small handful of the older style blade designs in various states of completion, most of which are already claimed, before doing a full launch of the line.

This set of three Benghazi Warfighters was bought by fellow for himself and some family members.  The blanks are waterjet cut from 3/16" 80CrV2 steel, ground and heat treated by me, and handle slabs shaped from TeroTuf using jigs and a series of router bits. 

[Image: 26161665559_7febfba985_c.jpg]bw04 by James Helm, on Flickr

The blades have a Caswell black oxide finish (the final version will have a coating) with the touchmark laser engraved.  The sheaths are standardized, one will fit any of the blades.

[Image: 26161664589_46fb8fa739_c.jpg]bw05 by James Helm, on Flickr

A couple of hours after picking these up, the customer called up and laid claim to one of the older-style Little Rok mid-techs in progress.  Smile

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  Meat cleaver, bush dha, and Persian fighter
Posted by: Stormcrow - 10-26-2017, 03:12 AM - Forum: Knives and Assorted Weapons - Replies (1)

Some mid-sized blades finished up a while back.  All are 80CrV2 steel.
First up is a small meat cleaver commissioned by a customer.  He liked the looks of a cord-wrapped cleaver I had forged for the Blade Show and wanted one with a TeroTuf handle.  I liked the results well enough I traced it out to have a reference if I do future versions.  Smile  It's about a 7" blade.
[Image: 37021288486_296b809bc3_c.jpg]cleaver01 by James Helm, on Flickr
[Image: 36374611044_f966736fd6_c.jpg]cleaver02 by James Helm, on Flickr
It was picked up at the Usual Suspects Network Gathering knife show, and I didn't get a chance to get good pics before traveling, but here are a couple of interesting shots of it.  The first is during thermal cycling, after forging and before stock removal.
[Image: 37211630165_588ce3ce5e_c.jpg]cleaver03 by James Helm, on Flickr
And a picture from the customer himself, just prior to cutting up these ribs.  According to him, the cleaver "went through them like they weren't there".  Big Grin
[Image: 26161660759_77aac09210_z.jpg]ribs by James Helm, on Flickr
And speaking of cutting up critter parts, another customer had this pic of his drop point processing out rabbit along with an ESEE.
[Image: 37906787962_4556d2ece0_z.jpg]rabbit by James Helm, on Flickr
This bush dha was another casualty of having to get everything ready for the show.  These are the only pictures I managed to get.  It was originally intended to be a different blade shape, more of a bolo, but sometimes you have to work with the steel rather than boss it around.  It's about a 12" blade with a handle of hemp under paracord.
[Image: 37039463372_5894f95bbd_c.jpg]dha02 by James Helm, on Flickr
I did get an awesome shot of it with the infamous Ed Calderon, the Taco Ninja.  Got an interesting upcoming project with Ed.
[Image: 37211629475_9fa7b3af0d_c.jpg]dha01 by James Helm, on Flickr

And this 12"-bladed Persian fighter was originally planned to be on my table at the Blade Show, but ended up missing out because I was running out of time. It went to the Gathering with me and came back where it was claimed once I posted it on Instagram. The blade is about 12", and the top edge is unsharpened. I'd consider this to be about as close to doing a fantasy piece as I do.

[Image: 23672771898_694466b734_c.jpg]persian01 by James Helm, on Flickr

[Image: 37476766596_d3883d56e6_c.jpg]persian02 by James Helm, on Flickr

The customer requested a mild steel trainer to be predominantly used on his BOB training dummy. That was a first to me, but I agreed. I used 3/16" mild steel and trimmed out the shape on a bandsaw before cleaning up on my belt grinder. The handles of both
are hemp under paracord, and it took three tries to get the wrap to feel almost the same as the original. Then I worked on getting the balance the same as the original.

[Image: 37906789852_022dd04459_c.jpg]persian02 by James Helm, on Flickr

The result was a trainer that's a bit lighter than the original, but due to having the same balance it feels very close to the same.

[Image: 26161663339_e4ccf22807_c.jpg]persian01 by James Helm, on Flickr

[Image: 37906789432_04e554d1a7_c.jpg]persian03 by James Helm, on Flickr

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  Anyone have packs for there dogs?
Posted by: boomhawr - 10-24-2017, 01:29 AM - Forum: Backpacking and Gear Testing - Replies (4)

Anyone have experience using backpacks on there dogs?

First, some background. My girlfriend has a 16 year old Bichon Frise that, poor thing, is on it's last leg. Vet can't do anything for her and says she's got about 4 month left. Her son has a 4 year old, 90 pound, female half great Pyrenees and half golden retriever. We can't separate the 2 dogs for long, because the little dog stresses out over being away from her "sister". Even when it's bed time, she barks until the other dog is in the room with her, If they have to be kenneled (like at the vet or if they have to go out of town, and no one can watch them), then the small dog has to be kept in the large dog run so she is with the bigger dog. Her son's "thing" is fossil hunting (it's all he ever wants to do), and my son loves going too. I suggested that we start working on his dog for backpacking, so after we loose the little dog, she can go on the trips with us, and maybe that will help her son, and the big dog both cope the loss of the little dog. We aren't going to load her down with rocks and fossils, but figured she could carry water, snacks, and/or maybe some of the smaller tools.

So, that's the background, now to the point.

1: Do y'all think that would help them cope with the loss, because now he and his dog will be out together, instead of her being left at home alone?

2: What would be a max carry weight for the 4 year old, 90 pound, female half great Pyrenees and half golden retriever? ( I've looked on this forum and elsewhere, and have seen 15-20 and 20-25% of the dogs weight, so want to know what is correct).

3: What would be a good pack for this dog, and fossil hunting/rock hounding activities?

4: Do they make dog backpacks that are insulated to keep the water she carries cool?

Thank you for any help

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  Snow Shoes & Solitude - DVD
Posted by: Jimbo - 10-22-2017, 10:18 PM - Forum: Questions and Answers - Replies (6)

Has anyone here seen the DVD:  Snow Shoes & Solitude:  A Year In The Wabakimi Wilderness?  It is about the year beginning in 1994 that Les Stroud & Sue Jamison spend in the Canadian wilderness with no modern tools or conveniences.

Copies are apparently very difficult to obtain and priced accordingly.  What I am asking is, is this DVD worth basically a "C Note?"

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Posted by: alukban - 10-20-2017, 01:54 PM - Forum: Urban Survival Skills - Replies (7)

I just started reading up on Arduino toys yesterday.

Wow! I can pretty much start making my own stuff after 15 minutes of reading! LOL  Big Grin

It's like Legos!

Kids have it so easy these days!

Dang but I have so many evil things going on in my head right now...  Tongue

Anybody else play with these? (Not you Dravine!  Wink )

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  Rations for Diabetics?
Posted by: Dad - 10-19-2017, 07:33 PM - Forum: Questions and Answers - Replies (23)

Good day Hoodlum Family!

I'm presently researching this but would value your thoughts, advice, opinions and even smartalek remarks!

I've been recently diagnosed with diabetes (the wonderful kind that comes from genetics and doesn't show up until your late '40s) so I'm looking for a way to put together decent rations that are high protein / low carb.

Has anyone faced this and discovered options that may help me and/or other diabetic Hoodlums?

Thank you very much!

Kurt (Dad)

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  Minnow Trap
Posted by: Dashing - 10-18-2017, 12:41 PM - Forum: Urban Survival Skills - Replies (4)

Here's a little trap for catching minnows in the shallows of a stream or pond.  It requires only a small container (water bottles seem to be everywhere these days) and a stick.  Cut the top off of the bottle, flip it around, and slide it back into the body of the bottle.  Drill 4 small holes around the open end (through both layers of plastic) with the tip of your knife.  The holes should be spaced 90 degrees apart.  Craft three little pegs to pin the top and side holes.  Craft an anchor stake which will also be used to pin the last hole in the bottom of the trap.  Bait with a worm, other local insects, food scraps, etc.  Set it in place in the shallows.  Fine tune the depth based on where the minnows or small baitfish are swimming.  Use the small fish to catch bigger fish (or eat them if you're in really bad shape).

*the trap obviously has to be placed IN the water.  The last photo is shown on land for illustration purposes.  

[Image: aQ71Au0.jpg]
[Image: 2LgpChu.jpg]
[Image: IrUlUtv.jpg]
[Image: BiYGmmA.jpg]

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  Steaks on the Coals
Posted by: Dashing - 10-16-2017, 01:09 PM - Forum: Wilderness Cooking Forum - Replies (5)

Mako and RandyT mentioned ash cakes in another thread.  Although I've never tried those, I have cooked quite a few steaks on the coals of a fire.

Hardwoods are what you want here.  I've used maple and oak and both work very well.  I've had less luck with lighter woods such as pine because it burns hotter and faster.  Make sure you aren't using any kind of crazy toxic wood or anything.  I don't want to be responsible for killing anyone off.

Build your fire:
You want a nice wide fire base.  Build your fire up and then let one area burn down low to a nice hot bed of large coals.  I find that split wood about 3/4" x 3/4" x 8" pieces, or a little fatter, will produce nice sized coals for cooking steaks.  Don't pull your coals out of the fire, rather clear the higher flaming fuel off the top to expose your coal bed.  You can surround the cooking coals with other pieces of firewood or rocks as a wind break and to reflect heat like an oven.

Add any seasoning first.  Then, put your steaks right on top of the coals.  Set them down fairly gently.  Don't disturb the coals too much because you don't want to kick up a lot of ash onto your nice juicy steaks.  Ash sticks, coals don't really stick much.  At this point, you have to go by feel or use the force or whatever method of instinct you prefer.  For your first coal steaks, start with 6 or 7 minutes a side.  Flip the steaks with improvised tongs and knock of what little coals may stick. After doing this once or twice you'll get a feel for the temperature you want the coals, timing, and how you like your steaks cooked.  Slow and steady wins the steaks...

Why the heck would I throw a fillet mignon on the coals of a fire? :
It tastes really good.  More importantly, if your plane crashes in the Alaskan wilderness and you didn't pack a frying pan, you can still cook that kodiak bear you just rassled to death.  "What one man can do, another can do!"

[Image: cK6ZVsN.jpg]

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