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Work Sharp has these 2 belt sharpeners available and I gots this hankering to spend some stupid money this time of year.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IT...PDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-Repeat...nion&psc=1


I have a dull ceramic knife that could use a good sharpening. Diamond belts are available for that cheaper unit, but not with the Onion unit. However, I would be able to easily get my Victorinox kitchen knife razor sharp! Then I could sell my ceramic knife.


I have a Hoodlum and Bussee Batttle Mistress that has a small nick near the tip. Will these units work for that and at which angle? I also have a handful of SAKs and some Kitchen knives big and small.


I like the Onion model cause of the many angles, but is it worth it? What about axes? and other stuff like Scandi grinds. I have a Mora and SBT.


In a nutshell, what you think?


I got rid of my finicky Lansky system cause all my stones were full of petro oil, not good for the kitchen.
(12-22-2017, 07:39 AM)Tn Ridge Rover Wrote: [ -> ]Work Sharp has these 2 belt sharpeners available and I gots this hankering to spend some stupid money this time of year.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IT...PDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-Repeat...nion&psc=1


I have a dull ceramic knife that could use a good sharpening. Diamond belts are available for that cheaper unit, but not  with the Onion unit. However, I would be able to easily get my Victorinox kitchen knife razor sharp! Then I could sell my ceramic knife.


I have a Hoodlum and Bussee Batttle Mistress that has a small nick near the tip. Will these units work for that and at which angle? I also have a handful of SAKs and some Kitchen knives big and small.
Have you tried a stropping board?  Easy to build and use and fantastic results


I like the Onion model cause of the many angles, but is it worth it? What about axes? and other stuff like Scandi grinds. I have a Mora and SBT.


In a nutshell, what you think?


I got rid of my finicky Lansky system cause all my stones were full of petro oil, not good for the kitchen.
I have the cheaper one. Got it for a good price. I'm liking it for a quick hone. Works good for axes and garden tools. Just take off all the guides and use it with just the belt.

I think the Ken Onion would be the one to get. A little more usable
You know you didn't have to toss your Lansky, right? You could have just washed your knives after you sharpened them. Smile
run your lasky stones thru the dish washer
(12-23-2017, 06:08 AM)caver56 Wrote: [ -> ]I have the cheaper one. Got it for a good price. I'm liking it for a quick hone. Works good for axes and garden tools. Just take off all the guides and use it with just the belt.

I think the Ken Onion would be the one to get. A little more usable

Thats what I'm thinking. No hurry now, I'll be too busy for a bit. Would be nice to never worry about sharpening again and even have every knife in the place shaving sharp!


Funny thing about  giving away gear. When you give it away, you are anxious to replace it with an upgrade. Anyway, it went to a good home.
I have the Ken Onion one.  Mostly bought it to put a usable edge on a new set of Old Hickory knives.  Managed to sharpen nearly every knife in the house in one afternoon.

It puts a convex edge on everything, so it's kind of counter productive for keeping a scandi grind edge.

All in all, it's a good sharpener.  Be careful though.  It can be really easy to remove too much material.  Unless you need to create an edge like I did with my Old Hickory knives, you'll only need the coarse grits for mower blades and maybe axes!
(12-25-2017, 05:34 PM)WayneH Wrote: [ -> ]I have the Ken Onion one.  Mostly bought it to put a usable edge on a new set of Old Hickory knives.  Managed to sharpen nearly every knife in the house in one afternoon.

It puts a convex edge on everything, so it's kind of counter productive for keeping a scandi grind edge.

All in all, it's a good sharpener.  Be careful though.  It can be really easy to remove too much material.  Unless you need to create an edge like I did with my Old Hickory knives, you'll only need the coarse grits for mower blades and maybe axes!

I read somewhere where some guy would only sharpen one side of his scandi grind knives.
(12-27-2017, 01:38 PM)Tn Ridge Rover Wrote: [ -> ]
(12-25-2017, 05:34 PM)WayneH Wrote: [ -> ]I have the Ken Onion one.  Mostly bought it to put a usable edge on a new set of Old Hickory knives.  Managed to sharpen nearly every knife in the house in one afternoon.

It puts a convex edge on everything, so it's kind of counter productive for keeping a scandi grind edge.

All in all, it's a good sharpener.  Be careful though.  It can be really easy to remove too much material.  Unless you need to create an edge like I did with my Old Hickory knives, you'll only need the coarse grits for mower blades and maybe axes!

I read somewhere where some guy would only sharpen one side of his scandi grind knives.

They are your knives, you can sharpen them anyway you want.  I'm just saying, at some point it will no longer be a scandi grind because you would have a secondary angle at your cutting edge.  You would effectively be converting your scandi to a flat grind.  Either way, your knife will be sharp.  Smile   I only have a few Moras and I maintain their original blade angles.

If you have a laminated steel blade, and you consistently sharpen only one side of the edge, you will eventually go off center and undo the purpose of a laminated steel.
I find myself using a Spyderco system for beveled edges and a leather strop on a 1x4x16 board along with 500-3000 grit wet/dry sand paper for my convex edges.  Scary sharp!

Remember GAP

Grit
Angle
Pressure
(12-28-2017, 01:30 PM)jbarrow Wrote: [ -> ]I find myself using a Spyderco system for beveled edges and a leather strop on a 1x4x16 board along with 500-3000 grit wet/dry sand paper for my convex edges.  Scary sharp!

Remember GAP

Grit
Angle
Pressure

I'll always remember GAP because I got a front row, face to face instruction from a most knowledgeable instructor! I believe his name was J "master of the blades" Barrow......the guy has a PHD in knife sharpening, knife skills and terminology....


Big Grin

AOC
(12-28-2017, 09:29 PM)Adapt-Overcome-Conquer Wrote: [ -> ]
(12-28-2017, 01:30 PM)jbarrow Wrote: [ -> ]I find myself using a Spyderco system for beveled edges and a leather strop on a 1x4x16 board along with 500-3000 grit wet/dry sand paper for my convex edges.  Scary sharp!

Remember GAP

Grit
Angle
Pressure

I'll always remember GAP because I got a front row, face to face instruction from a most knowledgeable instructor! I believe his name was J "master of the blades" Barrow......the guy has a PHD in knife sharpening, knife skills and terminology....


Big Grin

AOC
PHD: Purdy Harmless Dude
The cautionary part of using powered sharpeners is heating the edge and when it cools slowly it anneals.
Don't use gloves and dip the blade in water after every pass.
I think that unless a blade is badly nicked sharpen them by hand.
I sharpen mine while watching television
Having many...many...many knives, it's a nightly ritual...Mrs. Griz is getting used to it and can now differentiate between squelch and sharpening. Tongue
(12-29-2017, 01:10 AM)Grizzly Dave Wrote: [ -> ]The cautionary part of using powered sharpeners is heating the edge and when it cools slowly it anneals.
Don't use gloves and dip the blade in water after every pass.
I think that unless a blade is badly nicked sharpen them by hand.
I sharpen mine while watching television
Having many...many...many knives, it's a nightly ritual...Mrs. Griz is getting used to it and can now differentiate between squelch and sharpening. Tongue

Big Grin Big Grin
Wise words everybody!
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